Skip to the text
socialdreamnetwork

Art Hotels · 6

Six hotels in old buildings, taken one thing at a time. What puts a hotel in this section is that the thing is made rather than natural: iron, plaster, timber, a clock, a room left where it was found. Buildings whose interest lies in the landscape around them are not here, and neither is anything built new for effect.

Hotel lounge with a hanging silver egg, marble columns, green sofas and a fireplace
Art Hotels · six entries

01

Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace

Budapest, Hungary

Two iron birds stand in the doorway, and neither of them is looking at the street

The Detail

The gates are wrought iron, made in the first years of the twentieth century, and peacocks are worked into them. The birds face away from the street, into the building. Art Nouveau ironwork of this kind was drawn as one panel first, then forged piece by piece and hung.

The Building Around It

Gresham Palace was finished in 1906 on the Pest bank of the Danube, at the head of the Chain Bridge. It was built as an office and apartment block for a London insurance company, and the street front is stone with tall arched windows and a heavy cornice. The hotel arrived much later, after a long restoration.

Where To Find It

The gates stand at the main entrance on the square facing the bridge, between the pavement and the covered passage that runs through the middle of the block. You meet them from the outside.

Arrange This

The entrance is on a public square, but the passage behind the gates belongs to a working hotel, so ask at reception before you stop there.

Last reading · June 2026

Art Nouveau stone facade of Gresham Palace with twin corner domes, seen from the square
Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace · Budapest, Hungary

02

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi

Hanoi, Vietnam

Under the courtyard there is a room the hotel did not know it still had

The Detail

A bomb shelter sits under the building. It was sealed and forgotten for decades, then found again during construction work in the courtyard. The walls are thick concrete, the space is low and narrow, and it has been kept close to the state in which it was uncovered.

The Building Around It

The Metropole opened in 1901, in the French colonial period, and the oldest wing is white stucco with green shutters and a dark canopy over the door. Later wings were added behind it as the hotel grew. From the pavement the historic block reads as a long, low front in the middle of the government quarter.

Where To Find It

The shelter lies beneath the courtyard at the centre of the block, between the old wing and the newer one. A narrow stair goes down to it from ground level near the bar.

Arrange This

Access to the shelter is arranged by the hotel and is not open on request, so write ahead and plan around whatever answer you are given.

Last reading · May 2026

Evening courtyard of the Metropole, with tables on the lawn and the white colonial wing behind
Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi · Hanoi, Vietnam

03

Villa d'Este

Cernobbio, Lake Como, Italy

The pool is not cut into the ground; it floats, and the lake carries it

The Detail

Instead of standing in the garden, the swimming pool sits out on the water of Lake Como, on a floating platform moored off the shore. Swimmers are at lake level with the far bank in view. The platform holds the pool, its surround and the steps that reach it.

The Building Around It

Villa d'Este was built in the sixteenth century as a private villa on the western shore of the lake, and the gardens behind it climb the slope in terraces. The main house is rendered and pale, with regular windows and a formal water stair on the axis of the garden. It became a hotel in the nineteenth century.

Where To Find It

The platform is moored off the lawn in front of the villa, on the Cernobbio shore, a short walk from the main house. It is visible from the waterfront path and from boats crossing the lake.

Arrange This

The pool and the lawn are hotel ground rather than public shore, and the platform is a summer arrangement, so check what is in place before travelling.

Last reading · April 2026

Terraced garden and mosaic garden facade of Villa d'Este against the hillside
Villa d'Este · Cernobbio, Lake Como, Italy

04

The Peninsula Hong Kong

Hong Kong

Everything around the columns has been rebuilt at least once, and the columns have not

The Detail

Pale columns run down both sides of the lobby, carrying a high moulded ceiling. They date from 1928, when the hotel opened, and they have been kept through the changes made to the building since. The room they stand in is tall, open and lit from above rather than from the walls.

The Building Around It

The hotel opened in 1928 on the Kowloon waterfront, built as a low, symmetrical block around a forecourt, with a dark stone base and a light upper wall. A tall tower was added at the back in the early 1990s and now stands above the older wings. The old front still faces the harbour across the road.

Where To Find It

The colonnade is on the ground floor, in the lobby immediately behind the main doors on the forecourt side. It runs the length of the room, so you pass between the columns on the way in.

Arrange This

The lobby is busy for much of the day and seating there is reserved for guests taking tea, so decide in advance whether you want a seat or a walk through.

Last reading · July 2026

The Peninsula Hong Kong at dusk, the old wings and the tower lit against a blue sky
The Peninsula Hong Kong · Hong Kong

05

The Balmoral

Edinburgh, Scotland

The clock on the tower is wrong, and it has been wrong on purpose for a long time

The Detail

Set high on the hotel tower, the clock is run three minutes ahead of the correct time. The reason given is the railway station next door: a traveller reading it from the street is pushed to hurry. It is corrected to true time once a year, at Hogmanay.

The Building Around It

The building was completed in 1902 as a railway hotel at the east end of Princes Street, in grey stone, with a clock tower rising above the corner. It was designed to sit directly over the tracks of Waverley station, and the tower is one of the fixed points in views along the street and from the bridges.

Where To Find It

The clock is on the tower at the corner of Princes Street and North Bridge, above the main entrance. It is read from the street rather than from inside, and it shows on all four faces.

Arrange This

Nothing needs booking to see it, but the corner is a working crossing with heavy traffic, so find a place to stand before you look up.

Last reading · March 2026

Sandstone front of The Balmoral and its clock tower against a clear sky
The Balmoral · Edinburgh, Scotland

06

Hotel del Coronado

Coronado, California, USA

A wooden ceiling that was fitted together rather than fixed, and it is still standing

The Detail

Crown Room is covered by a ceiling of Oregon pine, put together without nails. The boards are jointed and pegged, and the surface curves gently across a very wide room with no column under it. The wood has darkened with age and is the main thing the room is looking at.

The Building Around It

The hotel opened in 1888 on the ocean side of Coronado, and it is a timber building, painted white with red roofs and turrets. It was raised quickly, in wood, at a time when a resort of this size on the Pacific coast was unusual. The seaward front has long verandas facing the beach.

Where To Find It

Crown Room is on the ground floor of the original wooden building, off the main corridor that runs from the lobby. It is used as a dining room, so the ceiling is seen from a seat rather than in passing.

Arrange This

The room is used for meals and private events, so ask when it is in ordinary service before you plan a visit around it.

Last reading · February 2026

Hotel del Coronado from above: white timber wings and red roofs on the beach
Hotel del Coronado · Coronado, California, USA

One thing per hotel is a way of writing, not a guarantee that you will be shown it. Everything here comes from published material and is put in our own words; the month at the end of an entry is when that material was last read.

Read on: Capsule Hotels · Casino Hotels · Ice Hotels